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Taco Tuesday: Taco De Carnitas
latimes.com 5 days, 16 hours agoMany are the crimes committed against carnitas , a surprisingly delicate meat. You will find it boiled instead of braised, tossed in a deep-fryer, chopped into tiny pig-nubs that may as well have been hacked from pigeons in a park. Carnitas is less a cut of meat than it is a technique, truly slow-cooked food simmered until the liquid evaporates and the meat seethes in its own rendered fat. It is a specialist's dish. If the windows are splashed with pigs sweating in big, two-missionary pots, you are probably
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Taco Tuesday: Taco De Birria
latimes.com 1 week, 5 days agoThe very first Counter Intelligence column I wrote for The Times, back when pigs could fly and raccoons had the miraculous power of speech, was of the Jalisco-style birria dive El Parian, a restaurant I had run into a few years before in a stretch when I decided to eat at every restaurant on Pico Boulevard, more as a performance-art stunt than as an act of cuisine. Then as now, El Parian looked from the street as if it had gone out of business long before; a metal security door, grimy windows, and walls lum










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